Cairngorm Diary #3

Jan 244 min read

I've now been in the Cairngorms for two weeks and today is the last day of this particular trip. It's been cold, as expected, but no snowfall and good riding conditions with little wind the past few days. My main objective for this trip was to disconnect, and to reset in some ways after a turbulent six months. I feel as though I am only just getting into it. Unfortunately, to fully reset would take much longer. I wanted to experience this wildness on a deeper level, to feel the power of this place in my heart. Each time I come up here, I like to push a little further, and to explore new areas of this vast region. And also to perhaps link up two previously explored destinations with a new section of trail. Despite some challenging health setbacks during this trip, I have managed to achieve the latter, in spectacular style.

Call me old-fashioned (or just old) but I get a real buzz from looking at physical OS maps, as opposed to the online versions. A good old, well worn OS map allows us to explore from the comfort of our home or accommodation. Once I begin perusing an OS map it is difficult to put the thing away! Following the trails and course of rivers with one's index finger, looking for forested areas and checking the contours of hills is surely one of life's little pleasures for the adventurous mind. Of course, for thorough research, apps such as Komoot, Strava or OS maps provide a wealth of extra information, even if a particular trail is rideable or not.

First up is a ride which I've wanted to do for some time. I'd previously cycled out and back through Glen Tromie and Glen Feshie, starting from Drumguish. Both of these are simply stunning in their own right. Last year a new section of trail was opened linking these two specacular Glens. This new section of trail is perhaps the best bit of gravel I have ever ridden. It is simply stunning. It is, however, very remote so please take care if you intend to ride this route. The weather can change very quickly in the mountains at any time of the year, particularly in winter. There is no signal here, so I always carry SPOT device with me. Thankfully I have never had to use it in an emergency. As you can see on the above images, this new section is gravel heaven. And check out the below image of the final descent into Glen Feshie. That was an absolute blast! I would recommend riding this route anti-clockwise, Tromie - Feshie, simply because you get this amazing descent. Be careful however and know your limits. This descent is rocky and you can easily be caught out if you're new to this type of riding. It would also be pretty 'sick' on a mountain bike ;)

Please see links to Komoot at the bottom of this post for the route. There are no cafes or places to find supplies on this route so be sure to be well prepared.

The next route that I did in the past week is riding from my log cabin near Newtonmore, along the EV12 cycle path to Dalwhinnie, then off road via Loch Ericht and into the mountains beyond to Culra Bothy. Again this is a spectacular ride with stunning scenery. It is also very remote once into the mountains. This route is all doable on a gravel bike, though I would recommend at least 40mm tyres. I'm running 45mm Schwalbe Ultrabites and they were perfect for this terrain. Please note that this particular bothy is not in use due to asbestos! It is still a great ride out to this location however, and if you wish you can cycle on past deeper into the mountains. You can also shorten this route by riding from Dalwhinnie. The Apiary Cafe in Dalwhinnie is excellent!

The photograph below is me with my Enigma Edge. This bike has been the perfect companion for Cairngorms adventuring. I often liken it to a fun hardtail due to its relaxed geometry and handling. It inspires confidence on those sketchy descents, and the titanium frame is compliant, soaking up all of the trail buzz nicely. This bike always puts a smile on my face. For much of my Beyond the Cairn series I have used this bike and it has never let me down.